How to Use the Typical Tools in a Sashiko Mending Kit

Let's breakdown what’s in my Sashiko kit and why each tool matters

If you’re new to visible mending or Sashiko stitching, opening a mending kit can feel a bit like discovering a treasure chest.

There are unfamiliar tools, unusual thread, curious needles, and maybe even a leather thimble that looks nothing like the metal one your grandmother used. In this post, I’ll break down what each tool does, explain why it’s essential, and how to use it. Whether you’re working with my digital download patterns or joining one of my classes, understanding your tools will help you mend with confidence and creativity.

What makes Sashiko tools different?

Sashiko comes from a long tradition of functional garment repair and the reuse of natural cloth. Evolved in the Edo era, Sashiko improved the thermal qualities of workwear and prolonged the lifespan of a garment meant to be passed down through generations.

The simple tools are designed for durability and ease with repeated motion and even stitches. While you can mend with basic sewing supplies, using proper Sashiko tools makes a noticeable difference in the quality of your stitches and the joy of the process.

My favourite—the leather thimble

One of the first unfamiliar items you will notice is the leather thimble. 

It wraps around your middle finger, where it is connected to your palm with a soft elastic band. Unlike rigid metal thimbles, the leather version is comfortable, flexible, and the leather’s grip keeps the needle steady while stitching. A leather thimble will help you push the needle through robust denim, thicker layers of cotton fabric and ease the strain on your fingers when mending larger areas.

Sashiko needles: strong, long, and extra sharp

When stitching, a key element of traditional Sashiko is to gather as much fabric as possible onto the needle to create an even rhythm of stitching. Sashiko needles are usually longer, stronger and sharper than ordinary sewing needles to withstand repeated stitching through denim, canvas, and several layers of fabric. They also have bigger eyes to accommodate thicker Sashiko thread for strong reinforcements.

If you’ve struggled with short, flimsy needles before, these will feel like a revelation.

Sashiko thread vs. regular mending thread

Not all threads are created equal, and this is especially true in visible mending.

You can use a variety of mending threads, but for strong and long-lasting repairs of thicker and more robust fabrics, I use Sashiko threads. Sashiko threads are twisted tighter than other threads and therefore used for reinforcements on areas that withstand a lot of movement, such as knees or elbow parts, pockets, and cuffs.

Traditional Sashiko thread colours are white and blue, creating an interesting contrast on indigo-dyed denim and cotton garments. Today, there’s a large selection of different colours to explore and use for your repairs. I mostly work with traditional colours but like to experiment with different blue shades to give the design more depth and an interesting finish.

You can find Sashiko thread in my Sashiko kit, denim repair kit, and as one-offs in my shop.

Which fabrics work best for Sashiko stitching?

Sashiko stitching works for pretty much all fabrics - natural fibres work best. Looser woven fabrics such as linen, muslin or calico are great to start your Sashiko journey as the needle glides through them without much resistance.

Denim, canvas, and other tightly woven materials can be harder to stitch, but the leather thimble will help to ease pushing the needle through those thicker layers of fabric. 

Fabric patches from discarded jeans

One of my favourite parts of the kit is the inclusion of reclaimed denim patches sourced from the Circular Hub Renee Materials. They have London locations in both Hackney Wick, where you'll find my studio, and in Shoreditch.

Supporting circular fashion by reusing existing materials to reduce waste and give your repairs a sustainable character makes the process even more meaningful. You can choose from different denim colours and thicknesses to match your original garment. 

Beeswax - how to use this helpful tool

This little traditional and versatile tool in your kit helps smooth the thread to help it glide through fabric layers easily. It also strengthens and extends thread life preventing it from fraying when stitching through thicker denim or multiple layers repeatedly.

Here’s how to use your beeswax before threading:

Hold the piece of beeswax in your hands to warm it a little if it’s very hard, then run your thread across the piece of wax once or twice - less is more as too much wax will make the thread sticky. Glide the thread between your fingers to spread the wax evenly and get rid of any excess. 

Sharp thread snips - why they matter

Small, sharp snips serve a different purpose than regular scissors - they clean the edges of frayed holes without damaging surrounding fibres. This is due to the sharp point that allows precise trimming, especially in tight or small areas.

How to use tacking or basting thread

Tacking (or basting) thread is one of the most underrated tools. It temporarily holds layers together while drawing your pattern and during the actual stitching. It removes the need for sewing pins, which distort the fabric and get in the way of your stitching flow. 

For your Sashiko repairs, you will use a similar patch of fabric to reinforce the damaged part, attaching it to the inside of your garment before starting to stitch your Sashiko pattern on top.

Once your repair is finished, the tacking thread can be removed by simply pulling it gently.

Heat-Erasable Fabric Pen vs Wash-out Marker Pens 

To mark your chosen Sashiko pattern, whether you are using a stencil or a ruler, onto your garment, fabric pens come in super handy. They work especially well on denim or cotton on flat surfaces. I prefer heat-erasable pens over washable ones because they disappear instantly with a warm iron and you can skip the step of having to wash the garment and wait for it to dry to remove the markings. 

In this kit you’ll find a heat-erasable fabric pen. When you start marking, give it a little time to get going, the markings will look quite pale at first but become more and more visible in the quick process of drying.

Reusable pattern stencils vs water-soluble stencils

This kit includes one reusable Sashiko pattern stencil that is more sustainable than the water-soluble stencils, which can only be used once. You will use the stencil to mark your pattern onto the fabric with a fabric pen. Whilst the water-soluble stencil might make stitching easier and more precise, as the chalk markings might faint in the stitching process, it adds an extra fabric layer on top of your patches, and you will have to buy new ones every time you want to repair your garments with a beautiful Sashiko design. The reusable stencil can also be altered - for example, the cross stitch pattern - add diagonal stitches for a stronger repair and different finish. Connect the arcs of the Blue Wave pattern to create circles and add extra rows to your wickerwork pattern to close any gaps that help to cover the hole or thinned-out area. 

Whether you’re repairing your favourite jeans or starting a mindful stitching project with Japanese Sashiko, this Sashiko Denim Repair Kit is here to get you started and make your process smoother, stronger, and more sustainable.

Happy stitching and welcome to the space of slow repair!